hook sizes

[CrochetSuzieQ]

I have a question: If you buy a skein of yarn and it only has the appropriate knitting needle size to use, how do you convert that to the right hook size? Thanks, Everyone!

[Susan2014]

Hi CrochetSuzieQ, I dont know. I go to search & put that in. Crochet Hooks & Knitting Needle Charts see what comes up. Usuall lots of Links??

Susan2014


I of many links?? KNITTING NEEDLE & CROCHET HOOK CONVERSION CHART | eBay

[Megcsti]

If the chart doesn't work for you, and if you are buying your yarn in person (not online) you could bring a scrap of worsted and a scrap of sport and compare sizes. Or you could ask the store owner/employee what the yarn weight is. If you like the yarn enough to invest in it blind, the yarn should fit comfortably in the crook of a hook like sport yarn does in a G hook.

You don't necessarily have to use just the right hook for just the right yarn, depending on the project. I made a vest using a J hook on size 5 thread/yarn, and it went really well.

I hope this helps you some.

[kl1000]

I do not buy yarn

[CrochetSuzieQ]

Thank you so much for all those tips! Larissa, you just use cotton thread? Is that why you don't buy yarn?

[kl1000]

Hello!! How are you? I prefer #30 or #40 cotton thread for filet items. By the way thread of different brand differs and hooks of different brands but the same number differ too. Happy crocheting!!

[CrochetSuzieQ]

That makes sense, Larissa. I'd never thought of the hook sizes varying depending on the brand.

[kl1000]

I used Tulip hooks for years and I suffered from wounds from the sharp hook head on my finger. Since I have Clover hook it does not hurt the finger. It has round head. Sometimes it is hard to poke through the thread loop but it does not matter. It was time I lost my Tulip hook and shuld buy other one "Pony" brand of the same size. Just imagine! The width of my filet runner changed.

[Charles Voth]

Hello.
I´m going to be a bit controversial here and say that hook sizes in patterns are RECOMMENDATIONS only. Even the hook sizes or knitting needle sizes on ball bands of yarn are just that, a recommendation. The reason for this is that the yarn companies needed to suggest a size, so they took the average size that seemed to give the gauge or tension that was most common for yarn of that thickness that in knitting had a nice drape and wasn´t stiff like cardboard.

The problem is that the yarn companies, didn't consult with crocheters and when things were being standardized in the 70s and 80s, crochet was largely used for blankets and granny square items OR lace with fine cotton thread. In the United States, the department store yarn manufacturers and distributors decided unilaterally that crocheters would only work with worsted weight or baby yarn, and that other thicknesses didn't matter. Yarn stores were considered to be for knitters and thus the great divide began. But in all other countries in the world, crocheters have always worked with a wide range of yarn thicknesses and hook sizes.

When you look at a pattern and a particular hook size is given...you need to realize that that was the hook size that the designer used to make that item...however...what if that designer is a super uptight person or a super relaxed person...that would affect their gauge. What if the designer wrapped the yarn around 3 fingers of her yarn-feeding hand to keep tension and you crochet by wrapping the yarn with your left hand and you don't add a lot of tension to the yarn being fed to the hook...no crocheter is going to get the exact same gauge...so what is the most important is that you work a gauge swatch for 10 to 20 rows (depending on yarn thickness) in 1 or 2 hook sizes below the recommended on and 1 or 2 hook sizes above the recommended one, just so that you get the same gauge...even if it's with a different hook than what that designer used.

Hope thishelps.

[SusansSoulShines]

Suzie Q, you can look at other yarn labels of the particular weight of the yarn that gives you no hook size guide and go by that as one close to what you'll like to use on the yarn you want. Or if you're buying say a worsted weight with no hook recommendation, you know that DK is a weight below that so go by what DK uses and go up one size, or maybe 2, depending on what you like.

Hi Charles, I hope you're doing well, nice to hear from you!

I often use different hook sizes than what's recommended, I go by what gives me the look I like for the stitch I'm using with whatever yarn at the time. In general, big hooks make lacier stitches, smaller hooks make more close/tight stitches.

I just use what I think looks good, but I have size guides and use them when I need to convert a size like 4,5,6 to G,H, I etc (that was just a random example!).

I use some 50 yr old and even some that are approx 75 year old hooks and in perfect shape, all Bates, Boye and one Gem brand. Some have 25 cents engraved and Made in U.S.A. or just USA right in the metal! some I have double to have Bates & Boye in them.

I made polymer clay handles for some of them and I like them a lot. I'd love to have some soft handle or ergonomic handles, not that egg attachemnt tho, or to try the Furl's wooden with the large handles or perhaps some bamboo.

I did have to buy a metal M and a generic acrylic P, but the other ones I inherited from a friend who's mother crocheted from a young age but passed away as quite elderly. She gave me every hook from K down to some that are so tiny they look like you could so surgery with them!! I'm quite honored to have them.